1st August 2010 Odyssey

And so we continue...

Darwin greeted us with an electrical storm - a great way to start the last 2 weeks camping across Australia! But the sun came out soon enough and a day was spent in Darwin gathering camping equipment and the essential bug spray!

Next stop was Kakadu, where the sun continued to shine but the previous months rain had taken the effect on the wetlands there, the optional flight provided some great views of the floodplains and the water coming over Jim Jim Falls. A welcome dip in some pools and we carried on down to Katherine Gorge, where a 4hr walk included a swim in the rock pools well away from the crocodiles!

Mataranka gives us another chance to cool down in the thermal pools with crystal clear water at bath temperature. Leaving here we bushcamped in a quarry where we were graced with another amazing electrical storm which we have become accustomed to in the Northern Territory. The Daly Waters pub was next on the agenda, a pub stop at 9am - well, we are on holiday after all! A pair of Laz's pants were left in memory of our visit. The afternoon bought a stop at the Devils Marbles.

We've been on Cyclone Yasi watch since leaving Darwin as it's heading in the same direction as us, having driven through some very crazy weather, on the way down to Uluru we've experienced some heavy rain and strong winds, but nothing that's left our spirits broken. Ayers rock, the highlight of any Aussie visit, unfortunately the sun didn't shine for us on this day but this didn't stop us from walking around the rock and also the Valley Of The Winds at the Olgas.

From here its a couple of bushcamps down to Coober Pedy, where we have a day to catch up on things, and to look at the opal mining, and the opal shopping that follows! From here we drive down to Adelaide, and then across South Australia to New South Wales, the days left are diminishing, with a drive through the Barossa Valley wine region, heading to the Blue Mountains, then the iminent arrival into Sydney - the trip is over!

Friends and memories for life, we pack up our bags and say goodbye to life on the Big Orange Truck!

So far...

After saying goodbye to the truck and James we headed into Singapore on local transport. Time for the long awaited Singapore Sling at the notorious Raffles Hotel, visits to the zoo/night safari and to take pole position at the Formula one track!

Leaving Singapore it was time to experience the less conventional transport that we had been used to. First off was the 45 minute journey on a catamaran to the ship building Island of Batam in preparation for our 30 hour ferry journey down the South China Sea crossing the equator to Jakarta.
30 hours of fun filled entertainment included jumping ‘Kinder’ spider competitions, coin football, keeping the locals at bay with our Karaoke attempts and Eoghan taking us into the early hours with his guitar playing and group sing-along’s.

Slipping quickly back into the developing world after a whirlwind of money and malls was strangely comforting. We took the train down central Java home to active volcano’s with the last couple of months being no exception. Unable to visit Mount Bromo as there was a 30km exclusion zone we decided to visit Mount Merapi still smouldering from last Novembers eruption. Surrounded by devastation we were reminded just how powerful and unpredictable nature can be.

Onwards to Bali, a feast of activity....... surfing and more diving was to be had including the Liberty Wreck dive, which lies just offshore from the village of Tulamben. Some decided to leave the tourist frenzy of southern Bali for a two day boat excursion sailing and snorkeling around the islands of Central Nusa visiting the notorious island of Komodo to see the dragons whilst others took in a mountain bike trip. Starting in Northern Bali with a stupendous breakfast view overlooking Volcano ‘Gunung Batur’ and lake Batur the trip took you through central Bali visiting traditional self sufficient homes and villages, coffee plantations and rice paddy fields.

Time to hit the Northern Territory of Australia and the last stretch of our trip! Are we really almost there?

Until next time...

So far...

After a festive time in Cambodia it was time to head across to Thailand. After taking in the city sites of Bangkok, a fantastic night was had by all as the whole 42 of us met up to see in the New Year on the vibrant Kohsan Road.

From Bangkok some of the group decided to head straight down to the Island of Koh Tao to do some diving, those not already PADI qualified took this time to become so, whilst the rest of us drove up to Kanchanaburi home to the bridge over the River Kwai and took trips down the old railroad.

Time to take retreat on the island of Koh Samui and meet up with the rest of the group. After a couple of days of storms the sun finally graced our presence and our final days we could enjoy the beaches before heading back to the mainland where we stopped off at Hay Yai before crossing into Malaysia.

South East Asia ever changing from country to country Malaysia not being the exception. Kuala Lumpar was our next stop, cash rich with an amazing sky line offering stupendous views from the Patronas and KL Towers and home to the biggest indoor rollers coaster in one of its many 10 story high shopping malls. After 6 months travelling with the truck it was nearly time to bid fair well to our driver JC, so where else to send him off in style other than Finnegan’s Irish pub in KL. Certainly an amazing night and one to remember for everyone.

Down to Melaka last stop in Malaysia, different again, with its Portuguese, Dutch and British influences the old shipping port offers a plethora of museums including its famous Maritime museum.

Until next time...

Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia

China and Tibet were definitely the hardest and toughest part of the expedition so far which will be spoken about for years to come, therefore heading into touriest friendly South East Asia was a welcome relief for everyone. Luang Prabang the northern most town of Laos, reintroduced the night markets and more of a holiday feel. After a leisurely couple of days relaxing and enjoying good food we headed to Viang Vieng the Tubing Capital of Asia. A rubber ring, riverside bars and the Mekong what could go wrong?

From here we headed across to Vietnam, time to say goodbye to James and the truck for a couple of weeks and use Vietnamese local transport. Our journey took us to across to Hue and down to Hoi An the tailor capital of the world. Suits, silk dresses and mocked Next bikinis were just some of the goodies brought away from this beautiful French Colonial town. A few partook in local cooking courses to take away the Gastronomic delights of Vietnam.

Still holding onto the holiday mode travelling down the coast to Nha Trang we hit the first beach since Turkey with the added bonus of coral reefs! Inevitably boats were chartered for diving and snorkelling expeditions, oh and a booze cruise! The beach was also a good platform to get some well missed running and exercise in for some of the group.

Heading back into mainland Vietnam on route to Cambodia, we stopped for a couple of days at HCMC (Saigon) the moped capital of South East Asia!! Whilst putting your life in your hands by walking and crossing the roads this was more of a cultural stop, taking in the CuiChi Tunnels and War museums.

Time to meet up with the well missed James and the truck in Cambodia; teamed with 2 days until Christmas and Rob’s birthday people were starting to get very, very excited.
In between visiting the must see sights of S21 museum and the Killing Fields the first day in Phnom Penh included an afternoon of paintballing. For Christmas day we hijacked the hostel’s kitchen and put on a 3 course dinner, not traditional but just what was needed in the heat. An emotional but extremely fun day one to be remembered!

Our last stop in Cambodia was Siem Reap, housing over 100 temples it can simply be called Temple Heaven! Each individually magnificent but certainly has to be narrowed down to the best 4 or in some cases 1 to 11.

Thailand here we come.......New Year in Bangkok and more diving on the Islands.

So far...

We left the wonderful Borderlands resort and headed north to the border of China and Tibet. With the temperature already dropping, we encountered the first Chinese bureaucracy with a long drawn out process of form-filling and checks. We met our two guides, one Chinese and one Tibetan, and headed to our first stop at Zhangmu.

As we continued to climb the next day, to altitudes of around 4500m, the temperature continued to drop and we have a very chilly bushcamp before heading up to a viewpoint of Mount Everest, where we were treated to the rare sight of the Himalayan range under a cloudless sky, giving a fantastic view of the most famous mountain on the planet.

Back to the road, we went to Shigatse, second largest city in Tibet. Local craftsmen on the street decorated furniture with the distinctive Tibetan paintwork, and the clean wide streets were filled with locals, highly amused by the unexpected influx of Westerners! On to the capital Lhasa, with the beautiful Potala Palace, traditional seat and tomb of the Dalai Lama. A good chance here to do some shopping, eat junk food and enjoy the last hot showers for some time!

We then headed out to the mountains for a week of bushcamps in the Himalayas as we headed east. The Friendship Highway, the main route through this area, is in some parts little more than a muddy track, and at one point we got stuck and were kindly rescued by the Chinese army with a bulldozer! At other points it was all hands on deck to rebuild sections of road, and sometimes helping other trucks out of sticky situations.With landslides, collapsing roads and no passing points, this is a very challenging part of the route, with a healthy portion of snow adding to the fun. The truck is well equipped for these conditions, and out came the snow chains, amid one or two snowball fights….

Long drive days, and some night drives followed, but rewarded at the end of the drive with a hot meal cooked by the intrepid group members, sometimes cooked on the local fuel of yak dung…trees are in short supply at this altitude.

Finally we emerged back to civilisation, having driven through some of the most challenging and beautiful scenery in the world. We’ve made it into mainland China, to the city of Lijang, where we’ll stay for two nights to give the truck some attention before heading out towards the Laos border…back to the sun!

Till next time…

So far...

And so we crossed to Nepal…and noticed an immediate change. Less blaring horns,litter and a general feeling of peace and calm. The Nepalese are a truly amazing nation, always ready with a smile and some cheeky banter.

First stop was Chitwan National Park, where many went on safari on the back of elephants to see the local wildlife, which includes may species of birds, crocodiles and the tiny (but ferocious!) Asian rhino. We were also treated to some local dancers coming to the campsite to demonstrate the stick dancing of the local Tharu tribe. Unfortunately it decided to pour with rain as they began the performance, but they weren’t daunted, and as soon as the rain stopped, off they went, with the group joining in, with varying degrees of success!

A few days here, then onto Pokhara, a gorgeous town nestled within view of the Himalaya range, next to a huge lake. Backpacker central…lots of great bars and restaurants, including the famous Everest Steak House, which serves the most amazing steak you’re ever likely to find! Plenty of shops too, selling local handicrafts, clothes and trekking gear. The girls hit the shops with a vengeance…

For many, this was the start of the 2 week break halfway through the trip, and they stayed here while others came on to Kathmandu, capital of the kingdom.

The break is a chance for everyone to spend time with no schedule, away from the truck. Some went rafting, an intrepid pair tackled the 11 day trek to Everest Base Camp, and some just chilled out. The truck also needed the time for an overhaul, service, thorough clean and stock up for the next and what is usually considered the hardest leg of the journey so far - Tibet and China!

As the break came to an end, the group gradually reformed in Kathmandu, mostly staying in the central backpacker area of Thamel. Lots of tiny winding streets, with more traffic than it can cope with, but a fantastic place none the less. Another great spot for shopping, including stocking up on the cold weather gear needed for the forthcoming Tibet winter.

We moved on to Borderlands, a resort 20 km away from the Tibet border. Set in a stunning valley next to a fast flowing river, it’s a great place to unwind after the bustle of Kathmandu. Some went canyoning, which involves a tough climb followed by abseiling down waterfalls, and also to The Last Resort, famous as one of the world’s highest bungee jumps, and the highest canyon swing in the world, at 160m. Scary? Oh yes, but what a rush!

With the temperature already dropping at night, it gave us a taste of things to come as we head over the border to Tibet and China.

More soon….

So far...

Joyful reunions in Amritsar! Some of the group were already waiting there when the team from Pakistan arrived, and over the next few days more filtered in from wherever they’d spent their time…some in Goa, some Kerala and other spots around India. We also got our Americans back, after a break of nearly a month, so lots of catching up was done over beers around the swimming pool. It was fantastic to realise how much we’d all missed each other, and to have a few free days in Amritsar to relax.

The biggest site here is of course the famous Golden Temple, and also the border ceremony between India and Pakistan, which is a spectacle not to be missed! Lots of highkicking, plumed hats and dramatic gestures, with some good-natured chanting from both sides of the border.

We moved on to the beautiful little town of Dharamsala, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. With stunning scenery and cooler temperatures, it’s a lovely place to relax, full of backpackers, Tibetan monks and home of the Dalai Lama. We were lucky enough to visit at a time when he was in residence, so many of the group attended one of his speeches.

A long drive followed, with a couple of bushcamps on the way to Delhi. Due to the length of time involved in the drive, and the Commonwealth Games causing chaos with the traffic, we decided as a group to bypass Delhi and head straight on to Jaipur, the Pink City where we had a lovely hotel with a rooftop restaurant was a treat after a couple of dusty and sweaty bushcamps!

A short drive to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, which is of course not to be missed. An early start meant avoiding the crowds to enjoy this stunning monument at it’s best. Afterwards we visiting a marble factory and showroom, where we were shown the craftsmanship involved in the decorative inlaid marble which is unique to Agra, and used in the artwork at the Taj.The last stop in India is Varanasi, holy city on the Ganges. Another early start for a trip down the river to view the ghats,or platforms which lead down to the river, which is used for everything from worship to washing.

A long day tomorrow as we head up to the border and cross into Nepal, a haven of tranquillity after the chaos of India!

More soon….

So far...

We saw Turkey off in style, then headed to the border to meet our Iranian guides. After a lot of paperwork,form filling and fingerprinting we entered Iran with the girls resplendent (but sweaty!) in their chadors.

First stop was a bush camp in the desert, where we spent the evening watching the stars. Then onto Tabriz, for shopping in the bazaar and enjoying the luxuries of real beds!
The next stop was another bush camp, high in the mountains near Babek Fort. A few intrepid souls undertook the climb up to the fort, returning in time for a traditional Iranian dinner, prepared with assistance from our helpful guides.

Waking to a cool and misty morning we pushed on to another bush camp en routes to Masuleh. We had our first torrential rain since Vienna, but up went the awning and we soon warmed up with a delicious sausage casserole and piles of mashed potato.

We damply made our way to Masuleh, which is always a popular holiday destination for the Iranians, and this time was completely packed, due to the celebration of Eid, to mark the end of the Ramadan fast. After a couple of days we left to head back into the desert to dry out and head towards the beautiful city of Esfahan.
A few days here, exploring the city and chilling out in the main square, before visiting the ancient ruins of Persepolis, and finally Yazd, where those with out Pakistan visas flew from here to India.

Crossing through Pakistan was eventful! Plenty of long drive days, and plenty of hanging about at police checkpoints, but all in all went very smoothly. We managed to avoid the areas of flooding, and spent most nights in police compounds as we were under escort for the majority of the time, but on arrival in Lahore we treated ourselves to some luxury, and went for dinner in a 5 star hotel…with some much needed beer to wash it down!

Through to Amritsar in India with no problems, where we have a few days here to catch up with everyone’s tales from the time we spent apart.

More to follow from the rest of India….

So far...

An exciting few days in Istanbul were spent sightseeing and of course getting those all-important Iranian visas. A last chance too for the girls to shop for their Iranian outfits at the Grand Bazaar!

We left feeling sad to say goodbye to such an amazing city before heading out towards Gallipoli, where we spent the night before catching a ferry across the Dardanelles towards Troy, followed by a long awaited 'beach stop' for a few days.

Some fabulous teamwork from the boys as they helped the driver with some essential maintenance, rewarded by a few drinks, pub quiz and a late night swim in the Med. Bliss!

From one beach to another at Oludinez, where many intrepid people launched themselves off a cliff for some world-class paragliding. For others, world-class swinging in a hammock on the beach was more up their street..!

We met up with another overland group, with plenty of our-truck’s-better-than-your-truck banter….we won,of course. Victorious, we spent the day cooking a goat bought fresh off the mountainside, on a spit on an open fire.

Next stop Olympos, for another few days of chilling out in hammocks,cushions or beach, before heading inland to the incredible scenery off Cappadocia, where many took a hot air balloon to appreciate the landscape at it’s best…a once in a lifetime experience.

We had to say goodbye temporarily to our two American travellers who were unable to obtain Iranian visas, but we look forward to a raucous reunion when we get to Amritsar in India!

A few days of bushcamps followed, and now we head towards Doggy Biscuit, the last stop before we hit Iran. Time for a clearout of the truck and to polish off any alcohol…..

Until next time..!

An excited bunch of 40 arrived at Hammersmith to board the brand new UKTOOZ expedition truck and headed off to Dover. Our first night in Belgium was a bush camp in a village who kindly let us use the local football pitch to camp on!

Onto Germany, and another bush camp which proved a good bonding session due to a guitar being packed as an essential item (a must on any trip), so plenty of singalongs and one or two beers..

Next stop Prague, with a free day to explore the sights of this beautiful city, under a glorious sun.

Onto Vienna, with the first (and so far only!) rain of the trip, then through a sweltering but welcoming Hungary, where we had an engagement announced, then Romania and now in Bulgaria, at a campsite with stunning scenery, great hosts and an evening of traditional Bulgarian music and dancing from local children and the pensioners from the village.

Tomorrow a day to escape the heat at a nearby lake to play with powerboats, swim and enjoy the sun, before hitting Turkey!

Till next time….

+44 (0) 1865 573 986

1st August 2010 Odyssey

Australia - Made it!!

Singapore and Indonesia

Thailand and Malaysia

Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia

Tibet and China

Nepal

India

Iran and Pakistan...

Turkey

Europe...

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